|
I understand that it's not easy remembering
writing down all the stuff I do, so I'll have to sort things out to provide more
exact information.
1. Get information about the brand, this bike, avaliable
parts and other stuff - 30 hours
2. Engine restoration - app. 35 hours
3. Disasembling the bike (frame) - 9 hours
4. Restore gearbox - 10 hours
5. Blasted frame and all parts that are going to be black -
40 hours
6. Restore / make new fasteners - 40 hours
7. Wheels and brakes - 8 hours
8. Assemble frame, wheels, brakes, brackets etc.. - 35 hours
so far...
I've made the sprockets at work. They look great! I will provide some
pictures of them.
1. Get information about the brand, this bike, avaliable
parts and other stuff
Well, this is a parallell task. I still find new information all the time.
Without the internet, this work would have been quite a load. 2 hours talking in
phone, and app. 5 hours at internet gave me the inspiration to start the
restoration. I learned a lot about FB and my bike. I also found some history
about my bike, and I was in fact talking to a person wich have seen the bike in
use. I've had the bike for 15 years, but when I saw the picture of it, I was
gone....
HINT: Before considering doing such restoration of such
rare bike. Get pictures, as many as possible. It's a must.
2. Engine restoration - (Pictures: Coil,
Ignition, Inlet)
The engine is in quite good shape. Only bearings needs to be replaced. I
blaster most part with glass, and polish with steelwool. Cylinder is painted
black glossy with engine aerosol paint. Dried at 100°C for 3 hours.
Notice: If you consider doing this job, remove the
piston pin to see if the bushing has moved. My bushing moved so that the hole
for lubrication did not match the hole in the connecting rod.
When you blaster with glass, DON'T EVER blast at bearings, bushings or
inside the motor. If you do so, clean the surface with steel wool to make sure
that no glass particles stays.
3. Disasembling the bike (frame)
I tought I was very carefull taking pictures and write down information about all the
bits's original placement. The frame is built up of lots of small parts, and now
it fits in a beer case! Ready for blastering/painting.
4. Gearbox restoration
Replaced ball main bearing, made new bearing for kick starter. Run out of
bronze, so I made the bearing out of brass. It's only for the kick starter, so
it doesen't matter. Glass blastered, washed/polished with steelwool, assemblied.
We also did some"high-tech" job, mounting some o-rings to avoid oil
leaking. Hade to open to box twice again to get the kick end stopper right.
5. Prepare frame and parts for painting
This was a heavy job. Blastering all the pieces (which are many) is a great
job. About 40 hours in a blastering cabinet. 3 Compressors were running
constantly. Every single drop of original paint
was removed. The frame and parts went direct to powder coating without any
primer.
6. Restore / make new fasteners
Every singel screw, washer and nut (and there's many) are being cleaned,
blastered with fine glass, heated to app.200°C to it turns black (sometimes
with a touch of brown or blue) and cooled in oil. I will make a special mixture
after the bike is finished, protecting the fasteners from rust. Some new
fasteners are bought new. I had to turn them, grind them, blaster them and do
the same process to get the old look. Fasteners are supplied by Arnt Grø,
Norway.
Painted fasteners was painted with 130°max. engine aerosol paint, dried for 2
hours at app.125°C. They were blastered in front.
7. Straighten wheels was done the normal way, but we had to
make a jig to straighen the dents at the rims. Brake shoes was cleaned and
blastered. I glued new brake on with epoxy, dried in a oven at 100°C for 2-3
hours
8. Assemble frame, wheels, brakes, brackets etc.. - 25 hours
so far...
The title is "assemble the whole bike" really. As you can see from the
pictures at the main page, It's a hell of a job when you don't remember how it
was, and there's a lot of parts that are depending of each other. So each part
is mounted at least two times to get it right. I use lots of thick grease
everywhere.
| Engine finished |
 |
| Inlet tube, I had to remove 1millimeter of the material some places to
get rid of the scratches. |
 |
| We made a special jig to straighten this flywheel cover. It took 2
nights, but now it look's like new |
 |
|
Material for
the bearings was ordered from www.johnson-metall.com.
(Norway), and costs about 250 NOK incl. post. Black glossy engine paint was hard to
get. Finaly I found it at Torshov Bilrekvisita. It cost app. 90 NOK.
|
